As a cigar smoker I am sure you have had the same conversations that I have in regards to humidor size. The most common advice given when a person is in the market for a humidor is “buy bigger than you need. This is very good advice as long as the size you are looking for fits within your budget.
If large storage does not fit your budget, I would strongly suggest purchasing a cooler to setup and use. The plastic within the cooler does an excellent job of holding humidity and the insulation does a lot to help hold interior temperature.
Using a cooler as a humidor couldn’t be simpler and it is a lot of bang for your buck. Since I recently outgrew my cooler I am going to setup another for storing cigars. Since I am already setting up the cooler I thought this would be a great opportunity to write a how to article for anyone who may be in the market for inexpensive storage.
Just like a humidor, you want to get the biggest one you can as long as you have the storage space and budget for it. Buying a cooler the size of a standard flip top lunch box is going to be a waste of time unless you are looking to make a make shift travel coolidor. Personally I would not recommend going any smaller than a 35 quart unit.
I decided to go out and buy a rather large cooler, weighing in at 120 quarts. One thing to remember is that you have to store this unit, so do not go out and buy something that is going to be impractical for you to store.
Once you make a decision on the size of the unit, take a look around and try to get the best price you can. In a situation like mine, I was trying to stay on a low budget for the most storage I could get. In the end I went to Walmart and picked up a 120 quart cooler for $44.95 during an after Labor Day closeout sale.
Next on the list of things to buy are empty boxes. You may not even need to buy them if you have some empties sitting around. I recommend using quality wooden boxes and not the cheap ones that remind you of an old cereal box (La Vieja Habana by Drew Estates). The wooden boxes will work with your humidification unit and hold in some humidity to create a buffer for when you open and close the cooler.
If you do not have any empty boxes lying around you can always order them from somewhere like Cigars International. CI has paper wrapper wooden boxes and high quality wooden boxes that they will ship to you for a few dollars per box. If you would rather not go this route stop bye your local cigar shop. In most cases cigar shops will sell you empty boxes for $1.00 – $2.00 each. If online shopping and a local shop is not an option you can always trade a few cigars for empty boxes, which is what I did. I got a very good deal on some high quality empties that were just going to be thrown away.
Next to consider is a humidification device. You have many options here, but I strongly recommend using RH beads. I have been using these beads for almost a year now and absolutely love them. They are relatively inexpensive and very easy to use. In my case I used my leftover 70% RH beads purchased from Heartfelt Industries.
The last thing you will need is a hygrometer. I recommend going the digital route for higher accuracy. I choose to go with a cheap Walmart model for under $7.00, however many people will recommend the wireless units so you can monitor multiple humidors with one base unit. Hygrometers are a rather personal item, so by all means use what you are most comfortable with.
Now that I have covered the basic items needed to build a coolidor, let’s cut to the chase and start building one.
Step 1:
Before we do anything, we need to clean out our new cooler. To do this take a clean cloth and dampen it with distilled water and a mild detergent such as Dawn Dish Detergent. Wipe down the inside of your cooler very well. Once you are satisfied with the cleanliness of your cooler take another clean cloth, dampen it with distilled water and remove all of the left over detergent from the plastic lining of the cooler.After you have wiped out your cooler you will want to let it air out for a few hours to remove any lingering plastic smell. If you are having trouble with plastic smell, place a small box of baking soda inside the cooler and let sit for a day or so.
Step 2:
Once your cooler is clean and free of any plastic odor, you will want to start raising the humidity level inside. To do this take yet another clean cloth and dampen it with distilled water. Wipe down the inside of the cooler leaving it damp, and then close the lid.
Step 3:
Now we want to start prepping our wooden boxes. I like to take my damp cloth and wipe down all of the unfinished surfaces of my boxes. Once I moisten the boxes I add them inside the cooler and close the lid.
Step 4:
Place your hydration unit inside your cooler. In my case I opted to go with RH beads. If you decide to go with the RH beads you will need to calculate how many pounds you will need for your cooler. Here is an example of the calculations for my cooler.
Width = 13.5″
Length = 34″
Depth = 12″
Area:
Width x Length x Depth
13.5 x 34 x 12 = 5508 cubic inches
Convert Cubic Inches to Cubic Feet:
5508 / 1728 = 3.1875
Now divide Cubic Feet by 5 (5 Cubic Feet per pound of beads)
3.1875 / 5 = .6375 Pounds
I round up to the nearest Quarter Pound to get .75 pounds.
Once I knew how many pounds of beads I needed, I sorted out three quarters of a pound of beads and placed them in four individual sacks. The sacks I used are made up of cheap Pantyhose. I used four sacks so that I could spread out the beads making them more affective than a single large bag of beads sitting at one end of the cooler.
To hydrate my beads I took that damp cloth I was using earlier and wrapped up the sacks inside it. I then placed this cloth and the beads inside the humidor to rest for a couple hours.
Step 5:
Insert your hygrometer into the cooler. Like I mentioned before, I went with a very inexpensive unit that I felt needed some modifications before being added. The modifications I made were done to allow air to more easily flow through the unit. If you do not want to make these modifications please skip to Step 6.
- Take the rear clip off of the unit.
- Use a typical file to flatten the raised plastic buttons that hold the clip in place.
- Remove the screws and pull your hygrometer apart, be careful not to drop the Fahrenheit / Celsius button.
- Drill holes into the back plate to allow air movement.
- Put the unit back together and add a strip of Velcro to the back plate.
- Stick the unit inside the cooler
Step 6:
Let the unit stabilize for another hour or so then remove the damp cloth and let the beads absorb any excess humidity inside the unit. Letting the beads stabilize could take a few days, so keep an eye on your hygrometer.
Step 7: Optional
If you decided to go with a cooler that is larger than 70 quarts I would suggest adding a fan to keep the air moving so that any humidity pockets do not settle. If these pockets setting it could mean that a portion of your cooler may have a higher or lower Relative Humidity than the rest.
I decided to go quick and easy, so I purchased an Oust Fan from a local pharmacy. To use the fan simply add the batteries and place the fan inside the cooler. It is very important that you do not add in the fragrance unit, you just want to use the fan.
The nice thing about the Oust fan is that it runs for 5 minutes then shuts off for 15 minutes. This conserves the battery and makes it last for quite a while. Again, this is an optional step you can take to help keep a constant humidity level throughout your cooler.
Step 8:
Once you are satisfied that your cooler is stabilized the only thing left to do is add in your cigars.
Cost Breakdown
Cooler – $44.95
Oust Fan – $6.99
1 Pound RH Beads – $28.95
Pantyhose – $0.33
Empty Cigar Boxes – Traded for Cigars
Total Cost
$81.22
For more information on RH Beads check out Heartfelt Industries
Please note
The video below was recorded several months after the article was written. There are some variations between the article and video, however those variations should not cause any conflict when building your coolidor.
Kudos on the nice coolerdor and the great instructions, I want to let folks know that the front cover of the Oust fan can be removed easily (there are two small screws in the back) to reduce the size of the fan and increase the air flow.
George E.
Great article although I would stay away from Heartfelt. Had problems his service and product. He is dishonest.
Had several transactions with Heartfelt and never had a problem. Top notch service and only heard good things from everyone I’ve talked to.
Heartfelt does not send as many beads as you pay for and is slow to ship. I’ll never send him another order.
Problems with service and product??!!
Dishonest??!
Utter nonsense!
From my experience excellent all the way around. More importantly, just go to all the cigar web site forums and read about Heartfelt…….no negative comments anywhere…….but here.
I smell a troll
Agreed with these gents. Heartfelt is top shelf. Great company to work with with great products.
Try Cigarmony as well. I have Heartfelt and just ordered through Cigarmony and the owner was really great with customer service. Check it out if you want an alternative to Heartfelt.
George,
Thanks for the tip. I’ve seen so many pictures of guys who use a dremel tool to cut away the front section of the fan that I never expected it to come off with just a couple of screws.
I think I’ll be removing the front of my fan later on this evening.
Again, thanks for the tip
-Walt
Honestly Walt, when you started smoking stogies, did you ever think months later that you’d be modifying Oust fans in the name of stogie storage?
Great How To Article…a wireless hygrometer would be tight. If I had a coolerdor I’d need it cause I’m one of those out of sight out of mind kind of guys and I’d forget about it.
Jerry,
When I started out, the 30 count box I ordered from JR was more than enough storage space for me. Slowly I grew and picked up a 15 count Cigar Caddy (Otterbox) and again, more room than I needed.
A couple of months ago I built my first cooler due to lack of space. It was a small 35 quart unit that I thought would last me a long time. Within two months that was filled and I unloaded everthing into a 70 quart cooler. Once again, i thought that would last me a long time.
With this new cooler I now have
1 – 30 Count Desktop Humidor (70% Full)
1 – 20 Count Desktop Humidor (80% Full)
1 – 15 Count Otterbox (Varries 75 – 100% Full)
1 – 70 Quart Cooler (95% Full)
1 – 120 Quart Cooler (10% Full)
When I think back to when I first started enjoying this hobby, if you would have told me I would end up needing all this sorage I would have laughed histarically.
The truth of the matter is, even being a budget smoker like myself (limited to a small weekly allowance for cigars ~$30.00) buying cigars on sale or online auctions racks up the total really fast. This cooler will probably last me 6 months then ill have to upgrade again. Fortunately I get alot of enjoyment out of this hobby so I wont be too upset when its time to upgrade, however I cant say my girlfriend will feel the same way.
Ditto! I started out with a little 20-30 count desktop that I thought I’d never need anything bigger.
Within a year I had two, and then my wife bought me a cabinet style (500+200 on top), and I thought I’d died and gone to heaven.
Now I have two more coolidors, too, and my wife thinks I’ve gone insane … “you could stop buying cigars and just smoke what you have, and you’d have over a year of cigars … even if you smoked a couple every day.”
Kinda hard to argue with logic….. so I don’t! 🙂
Superb article Walt! I’ll remember the fan for my next coolidor project 😉
Outstanding article Walt! Very well done.
VERY well done Walt!
The only thing I might suggest is lining the entire coolordor with spanish cedar (NOT aromatic). You can usually find at least single sided veneered plywood at you local specialty mill shop.
Great job!
~Mark
This is great of you to print.I am a newbie w/cigars and was checking on digital hygrometers on club stogie when i read your post.I get cabin fever after hunting season is over so this will be an excellent project to keep me busy.Hope its o.k. but i will drop you a line if i hit any snags or, if your already on to some since this article let me know if its not to much trouble.Again great article thank you.
Dave,
Absolutely, If you run into any problems please feel free to email me.
Walt – Great article! You and Jerry do some good stuff. Anyway we can get a video of this? Also, would a styrofoam cooler work for this?
Kirk,
Jerry asked me the same thing. I can put together a video of this, but it will have to wait until I am in need of a new cooler (At this rate it shouldn’t be too long).
It will have to be a multi part series, but it should be fun.
The Styrofoam cooler should work ok. Just make sure that the lid isn’t worn, otherwise you will get a poor seal and it will leak humidity. Some weather stripping should help with this. You can get it at any local hardware store.
Walt,
Great directions.
I notice you store all your cigars in boxes inside the unit. Since many of my cigars are purchased either in bundles or singles, can they be stored loosely?
Al,
The reason for me using boxes is to help keep a humidity buffer with the cedar that makes up the boxes. If you would prefer to not use the boxes then I would recommend lining the unit with Spanish cedar.
The boxes also help organize the unit. When I made my first one, I continued to add loose cigars. After a few dozen cigars finding one particular cigar became very difficult.
So really, the boxes take the place of the cedar lining and create a way to keep things organized. If you are only planning on making a small unit then you could certainly avoid the boxes and add some loose Spanish cedar to help maintain humidity.
If you would like to avoid Spanish Cedar all together I would recommend going a little heavy on the beads so that when the cooler is opened and closed you don’t loose too much humidity.
Hope that helps
Walt
should holes be cut in the cigar boxes to allow for better air circulation. It seems to me if cigars are in the boxes and the lids are closed they won’t get to much actual air or humidity.
Jim,
You could drill holes in the boxes if you like, I cant imagine it would hurt anything.
I don’t drill any holes in the boxes, I count on the cigar box allowing some airflow (although minor) to keep the humidity constant.
Normally when I add new cigars I keep them in the plastic bag I received them in (with the seal open) for a few days to acclimate. After that the cigars get moved into a box.
If i don’t feel the cigars are ready, I prop the lid of the box open for a couple of days.
It isn’t pretty, but your coolidor will work better than those fancy wooden humidors. By using an insulated box to keep the temp constant, and a circulating fan to eliminate hot and cold air pockets, you solved the problem that most humidors have, which is that the RH changes depending on temperature. RH decreases as temperature increases if the actual amount of water vapor stays the same.
Thanks for the idea for the oust fan. I will be using something like that for mine now. I’ve had a smaller coolider (75qt.) for a couple of years now and it works great. I recently decided to do an upgrade. Check out some of my pix at alsupcoolidor.shutterfly.com and tell me what you think.
Matt,
Looks great, thanks for the pictures.
I just picked up yet another cooler last week. I think that if I build a cooler after this one, I am going to steal your idea for making storage units out of Spanish Cedar.
Again, it looks great and id very practical.
-Walt
Matt, I loved your design for the cedar organizer! I might have to try making one like that. What did you use to fasten the wood together? Just some small nails? How thick was the stock you used?
Nice idea. I’m going to make one of these this week! I’m thiking of cutting a hole the sape of my hydrometer in the front so I can put it in, seal it with sillicone calking and view the meter from the outside.
Okay so I decided to save a few bucks and build the coolidor over the fridgador. Then Famous ran a deal on boxes on Pepin Garcia blue labels and that saved money became spent money. That being said I need to gets this thing up and running as I have no place to put them when they get here. So I have one last question about the construction; I saw that you used weather stripping in the video to improve the seal around the lid but is there anything I should do around the drain plug or is fine just the way it is?
thanks for all your reviews and suggestions,
-zBob-
zBob,
I left the plug alone in my coolers. Since the plug should be water tight (and not leak when it is full of ice and water, if you actually use it as a cooler) I figured it would be a tight enough seal.
A couple of things you might also consider. I broke apart my empty cedar boxes and used them to line the inside (with brass screws) so that the entire cooler is covered. I made trays for the cooler out of plastic canvas, the craft stuff that has all the holes in it. That solved the circulation problem. And just for good measure I put those thin sheets of cedar that comes in some boxes at the bottom of each of the trays.
Hey Walt, I was wondering, where did you buy that cooler? the igloo website is selling 48qt for like almost $50. I am a novice so I would need about 50-60qt, but I can’t find any cheaper than $50. I haven’t been to a walmart or anything like that yet though so I’ll have to check that out.
Daniel,
I picked that up at Walmart.
Your better off going to the store, sometimes they put them on clearance (a little later in the year) and you can get a 120 – 150 quart cooler for the same price as the 50 quart you were looking at.
Let us know how you make out
-Walt
I decided to look around in this town I’m in since there is no walmart for 70 miles, and I found a nice cooler at the pawn shop and since there was a spill inside they gave it to me for $3, it’s not huge but it looks like it might hold about 300 singles which is more than enough for now until I go to walmart and pick up a bigger one.
My gf and I filled it with hot water and baking soda and let it soak for a couple hours then really cleaned it out and I put some of that adhesive foam on it to help the seal, filled it with about a half pound of baking soda and my half pound of heartfelt beads should be here tomorrow.
All is looking good so far, now I need to get a digi hygrometer, and I’m not sure on how the temperature will fare with this since I live in the desert in upper NV. I’ll have to experiment.
Daniel – No Wal-Mart for 70 miles? You’re lucky man…I can count 4 within 15 miles of me.
I just moved here though, used to live in Goodyear AZ, right next to Phoenix so I know how the walmarts can be! LOL
Hi, I am making a coolidor for aging cigars not for my singles. Do I need to do anything different?
A.J.
No making there same cooler should be just fine.
The only suggestion I would make is to add in an extra circulation fan. With the cooler being for long term aging, it isn’t going to be opened very often so i would want to make sure I had plenty of circulation inside the cooler to prevent any dense pockets inside.
you said that your oust fan had some kind of a timer on it that it was on for 5 minutes and then off for 20 so it last longer. Do you know any other fans that are like that and where I can get them?
find anything??
A.J.
Short of wiring up some kind of circuit board I haven’t came across anything that would work like the oust fan.
Depending on the size of your cooler, you could pick up a timer (like the ones you would use for your house lights while away on vacation) and plug a computer fan into it to get a timed circulation.
I was wondering when u store the boxes in your coolidor i noticed they were closed ,will they still allow humidity to get to the cigars by closing the cigar boxes or is it better to keep em open or does it not matter ?
Tom,
There shouldn’t be a problem keeping the boxes closed within the humidor. The boxes I have used were not intended to seal tight enough to act as a humidor, so the humidity within the cooler will leak into the boxes keeping the cigars inside the same RH as the overall unit.
Placing a box such as the one found on the CAO Vision may cause a problem because it is designed to be used as a humidor. In that situation the seal would be much tighter than your run of the mill cigar box and slow down the transfer of RH into the box from the cooler.
Hope that helps and thanks for the comment.
-Walt
I’ve read elsewheres on this interwebs-thingy that placing a wooden match (minus the matchheads) to prop open each box corner helps considerably in allowing the humidity into each box.
Thank you , im fixing to build me a coolidor and i have several empty cigar boxes lying around and i have 2 destop humidors that have the upper trays taken out ( i find there is more room with out them ) so i am betting those whould be good to put inside my coolidor to stash singles on and help regulate humidity ,btw your videos are awesome keep up the good work !
Tom
Gracias por esta informacion, con ella me hice un Humidor de toper muy efectivo
Los puros se mantienen perfectamete y listos para fumarse
Gracias
In place of the RH beads, I found a product called Exquisicat Pearl Fresh beads (for litter boxes) that looks and performs like the expensive RH beads. Eight pounds of Exquisicat Pearl Fresh beadsfor $13.99.
What’s your opinion on this product versus the Heartfelt beads?
Thanks, Paul
Paul,
I have heard that some people have had great success with the product. If done right I’m sure that it will get the job done.
With that said, I personally, would never trust a bag of kitty litter to maintain my collection. With a product such as RH beads, I am comfortable with them due to the numerous success stories of the product.
Given some time, and many more positive results with the Exquisicat Beads, I may change my mind. However at this point I wouldn’t take the risk
Again, this is my personal opinion and I’m sure there have been numerous success stories with the product, I’m just not willing to take the gamble.
-Walt
I bought a small “sample” set of beads a couple months ago, and I must be using them wrong.
I put them in my 30-50 count humidor, after soaking them in distilled water, and my humidity is still all over the map.
I’ve tried resetting the humidistat, reseasoned the humidor itself and the humidity is still fluctuating between 58-72%, almost daily.
I thought these beads were supposed to stabilize the humidity.
Like I said, I probably did something wrong.
Any thoughts?
When you say “soaking them in distilled water” what do you mean exactly? If the beads are completely saturated (100% of the beads are clear) they can no longer absorb excess humidity.
I don’t remember what they should wind up being but I think 70% of the beads should be clear and the rest should be a milky white. This allows for 2 way exchange of humidity.
I set the bag into distilled water til they were 100% saturated (all clear) … I did this on purpose because my consistent issue is keeping my humidity above, say, 65%. So by saturating them, they evaporate some of the excess humidity out into the humidor – as I need – and then supposedly work with second humidifying unit (70% gel) to maintain the humidity.
At least, that’s the plan. But what tends to happen is that the beads go mostly white within a couple days, and then my humidity levels start gyrating up and down again.
And its only in this one humidor, too. My others are relatively stable.
Walt, many thanks for this site…I am in process of going into business on the side and selling cigars at various locations. Question, please, how does redwood rate as an alternative to cedar for the lining of a coolidor? It is often less expensive but I do not know the retention rate like cedar accomplishes…..
I’ve heard that leaving cigars in the cooler too long is bad because humidity is completely trapped. This supposedly leads to damaged cigars. Any truth to this?
John,
Redwood and Spanish Cedar may have similar moisture retention rates but the Spanish Cedar is used more so due to its natural insect repellent properties.
While both woods would be stable in a moist environment I would stick with the tried and true Spanish Cedar over the Redwood.
Hoover,
What your talking about would be more likely to happen if the case, in this case a cooler, was hermetically sealed and allowed for zero transfer. I would think that in this situation any off gassed ammonia that the cigars produced would be trapped inside and start affecting the flavors of other sticks.
With the cooler being opened a couple of times per week and the fact that it doesn’t seal 100%, I don’t think that you have anything to worry about.
Wow…didn’t even know this how-to was here. I think even mechanically-challenged people like myself might be able to pull this one off. Nice instructions, Walt.
Here’s a question about spanish cedar. I’m living in Japan right now, so finding spanish cedar isn’t happening. There is a type of wood I can find called “sugi”, or Japanese cedar. It smells a lot like spanish cedar, but it’s not really cedar, it’s some sort of evergreen similar to spanish cedar. Does anyone have any experience with sugi in a humidor or any other type of closed box? None of the Japanese folks I know smoke cigars, so they can’t help.
Isn’t SUGI raw fish?
No Tony, that’s SUSHI =)
I have one I set up almost exactally like yours except the fan.I’m going first thing tomorrow to try and find one!
EXCELLENT JOB!!!
Hey everyone! New to the site. Great article and great info!
Just wanted to let everyone know that I’ve found that Clorox Fresh Step UNSCENTED cat liter (of all things) is 100% silica gel. Which is of course the magic beads for humidors (coolidors, tuppidors, etc.).
It’s about $12 for an 8 lb bag! Sure as hell beats $30 for 1 lb. This should bring down the cost significantly when putting a “-idor” together.
Hope this is helpful,
Anthony
Everything seems to be about humidity with no way to control temperature. Is temp not a big issue? or will most temps do as long as they are steady?
I am having fits trying to get the same flavors out of the same cigars smoked even just days apart.
Tom,
Temperature makes a big difference. The humidity inside the humidor is relative to the temperature (Relative Humidity). It has to do with how much moisture can be retained in the air at a given temp.
Because of the insulation in the walls of the cooler, it prevents wild temperature swings inside the box. I keep the cooler in a room that stays at an average of 67 degrees, or so. It forces me to move it from one part of the house in Summer to another in Winter, but without getting very elaborate on the part of temperature control within the box, its just what I have to do.
One key thing to remember is that if you are comfortable your cigars will be comfortable. Try keeping them in the range of 64 degrees to 68 degrees and you should be good to go.
When temps rise into the mid to high 70’s you run the risk of beetle infestation.
Hope that helps
-Walt
Mike,
I have heard of the Crystals and have done a little research on them some time ago. The person I buy my beads from (Mark at http://www.cigarmony.com), tells me that the pearl beads perform poorly at the RH range we keep our cigars. Instead they rate well in the 70% – 80% range.
While I am sure that taking advice from a salesman may seem a bit odd, but I have a trust with Mark that has been developed over the past few years. Being the big cigar smoker he is, I’ll take his advise without hesitation.
Besides, I am just not comfortable trusting kitty litter to maintain a collection that has cost me thousands over the years.
Some people have used the product with great success, but I’m not willing to take that risk.
-Walt
Walt,
I set up a small coolidor before reading this and washed it out with dish soap and tap water instead of distilled water then let it air out for a few days. Do you think the fact that I used tap water as opposed to distailled water will pose any problems? I did however wipe down all the cedar and boxes with distilled water when I set it up.
Thanks,
Rich
Excellent job you did here Walt!
Thanks so much for sharing with us.
Hi Walt,
great video! Seeing that you do a lot of woodwork, I was always curious as to whether you ever built a wooden humidor, and, if not, would you consider making one in the future?
Thanks for the help on this topic, Walt. Will definitely use this method when cigar surplus kicks in *Which won’t be long the way my wife has been spoiling me* 🙂
I will definitely be following this setup once I get my cigar stash up. I currently have an Adorini 300ct. that’s about 1/3 full right now but that will be overflowing by the summer 🙂
Thanks for your help on this theme in this way. This has become very popular quickly for so many very good reasons of it.
I just wanted to say thanks and kudos on a great and informative how-to! I have been kicking around the idea of a coolidor for a while now and the main reason I have not done it is information on the subject is all over the place! Thanks for the straight forward approach. I have been a avid cigar smoker for about 10 years or so now and I have managed to keep the number of sticks on hand to around 100 so far in my traditional desktop. In the near future I am going to be acquiring a much larger means of storing/aging cigars. I will be buying MUCH more boxes and fewer singles. I will be starting a new chapter in my never ending pursuit of the “perfect” stogie. From here on out its going to be just as much collecting as it is smoking. This method you have laid out seems like a good fit for me and cost effective. I do have a couple questions if you have the time to answer them……….
1. Most of the boxes I will be storing are already made of Spanish Cedar so is it still important to line the cooler with it?
2. I really dig the fan idea and will be using that but as far as the beads go, would Boveda packs work just as well? I have been using them for about a year now in my desktop and am VERY pleased with the results.
3. Finally, how well does the coolidor stack up against a traditional cabinet/end table humidor for long term storage/aging. By long term I mean 3-5 years. I smoke cigars of ALL shapes, sizes, wrappers, prices, etc. I would hate for my $2 everyday bundle stick to somehow be ruined by being stored this way, much less the high dollar Tatuajes and Ligas!
THANK YOU for such a wonderful site once again! I am so grateful I found it and would greatly appreciate your feedback on these questions.
Smoke em if ya got em!
M. Spinosa
Thanks for the tip. I’ve seen so many pictures of guys who use a dremel tool to cut away the front section of the fan that I never expected it to come off with just a couple of screws.
I think I’ll be removing the front of my fan later on this evening.